Last month Women’s Wear Daily released the book Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture. And while Tonya Blazio-Licorish and Tara Donaldson cover Black culture’s contribution to fashion in the 20th century – our impact on the industry goes back even further.
Elizabeth Keckley, who famously made dresses for First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln, is a prime example – but not the only one.
Inspired by the book, Saint Louis Fashion Fund (SLFF), Savannah College of Art & Design (SCAD) and GENT Men’s Fashion Week are hosting “A Celebration of Black In Fashion.” The red carpet event and panel discussion will feature trailblazing St. Louis Black Designers Yosh Dafney, Brandin Vaughn and Theresa Wangia on Tuesday, Oct. 8 at Hearth & Soul in Clayton. The talk will touch upon the rich legacy of Black ingenuity within the fashion industry.
“We set the trends – and it’s always been that,” Vaughn said.
He points to St. Louis’ own Josephine Baker, whom he rightfully declares as the first Black pop star for reference.
“You can look at the trickle up effects where luxury companies come to our communities,” said Vaughn. “They figure out what we are wearing and then take those trends and make them a part of their brands – and sell them for thousands of dollars. We are the Mecca of style. We know what style is. We determine what’s going to be hot and we are the driving force for fashion.”
According to him, Black culture’s leading presence in fashion is due to our resourcefulness. It was a lesson he learned when he first picked up a needle and thread. He was guided by his grandmother as he repaired his church socks before Sunday service.
“Historically we are known for making something out of nothing,” Vaughn said. “People are blown away by our ability to take what we have and make it look beautiful.”
His grandmother, Ernestine Turner, made and mended the overseer’s clothes in addition to working on a plantation as an Arkansas sharecropper.
“She taught me every stitch – and now I’m making a living, and providing for my children, because of what she taught me,” Vaughn said. “I think about her every time I make something.”
Fashion is in the fabric of Blackness. And vice versa – and it starts early.
Dafney was an underclassman at Jennings High School when he started sketching designs. He was encouraged by his classmates and friends to create his own fashion line. They pooled their money together so they could support him as a teen fashion entrepreneur for a line that included mostly graphic t-shirts.
“When I think of what I’m doing now, my brand Dafney is definitely more complex,” he said. “I feel like I’m making sculptures. Art is a huge part of my identity in fashion.”
His out of the box designs will be showcased as a compliment to the Pulitzer Arts Foundation’s current exhibition,Scott Burton: Shape Shifton Oct. 4. In addition to his line, he has been a featured wardrobe stylist for film and television – most recently the HBO urban cult-favorite “Rap Sh!t”
He’s especially grateful for the encouragement he has received from the Saint Louis Fashion Fund, particularly SLFF co-founder Susan Sherman.
“She has been very supportive and resourceful,” Dafney said. “To have the kind of sense of community and support system that the Saint Louis Fashion Fund provides can make all of the difference.”
A Celebration of Black In Fashion will take place from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. on Tuesday, October 8 at Hearth & Soul, 9640 Clayton Road, Ladue MO 63124. Guests will be able to purchase the book at the event or online at http://www.hearthandsoul.com
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