The US city with president-loved restaurants, 40-layer lasagnes and one of the world’s biggest libraries

IT was my first time in Washington D.C. and, thanks to a late-night arrival, I had no real idea what lay beyond the curtain of my hotel room.

But as the sun rose the next day and I pulled back the drapes, I was greeted by a view that stopped me in my tracks — the White House, framed perfectly in front of me.

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Having grown up as an expat, I’ve been fortunate enough to travel the world and witness some of its greatest wonders, but this was a true “pinch me” moment.

Not only was I gazing directly at the beating heart of American democracy, I was so close to the building that I could even see the Secret Service agents on the roof seamlessly changing shifts, sniper’s rifles at the ready.

Jet-lag may be a common travel woe but at that moment it felt like a gift to be up and alert so early.

With the Presidential election so close, there is no better time to be in the nation’s capital — where the pulse of politics felt more electric than ever.

For the next few days, my base was the luxurious Hay-Adams Hotel, a distinguished establishment that once hosted the Obama family for two weeks before Barack’s inauguration in 2009.

This splendid building boasts 124 spacious rooms in colonial style and is ideally situated on Lafayette Square, just a stone’s throw from all the essential sights.

With that in mind, what better place to commence my inaugural visit than the historic White House?

Regrettably, we Brits can’t simply pop inside for a tour, but photographs taken outside the front gate are a worthy addition to anyone’s travel bucket list.

My true interest, however, lay in visiting the epicentre of American democracy — the US Capitol building, home of Congress.

As with most museums or historical tours in Washington DC, a visit to the Capitol is free of charge. Just be sure to book your time slot in advance at visitthecapitol.gov to avoid queueing at the visitors’ centre.

Brimming with architecture, art and artefacts, as well as informative exhibitions and a legacy of decisions that have influenced all our lives, it’s an absolute must-see.

Once you’ve navigated the stringent security checks, guides will escort you around the campus, showcasing highlights such as the Crypt and the iconic domed Rotunda, where many former Presidents have lain in state.

However, the most captivating part for me was the neoclassical, amphitheatre-style National Statuary Hall, which is dedicated to sculptures of prominent Americans, including civil rights activist Rosa Parks.

Be sure to cross the road from Capitol Hill and explore the Library of Congress on your way out. Housing an astonishing 175million catalogued books, it stands as one of the largest libraries in the world, second only to the British Library.

A visit to L’Ardente at 200 Massachusetts Avenue is another essential for anyone interested in American politics (and hearty grub).

A favourite haunt of Michelle Obama and other high-profile D.C. politicians, this restaurant is renowned for its 40-layer lasagne, smothered in cheese.

It will certainly keep you full and will only set you back $38 (about £29) while other mains cost from an affordable $18 (about £14).

Wash it down with a cocktail at the Round Robin Bar at The Willard Intercontinental, a favourite meeting place for politicians, lobbyists and power brokers.

If you fancy a break from the political scene, there are plenty of other complimentary museums in the city.

And as a big kid trapped in a 25-year-old’s body, my absolute favourite was the National Air and Space Museum (airandspace.si.edu).

Here, you can marvel at Neil Armstrong’s Apollo 11 space suit, which he wore on his historic moon landing in 1969, and see the Wright brothers’ pioneering flyer with your own eyes.

One of the splendid aspects of Washington, D.C. is its compact and well-connected layout. Just a stone’s throw from the museum are the stunning Botanical Gardens and the awe-inspiring National Museum of African American History and Culture.

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Notorious traitors

But why walk everywhere when you can tick off all the key sights by bus?

The Big Bus Tour’s Monuments Sunset Tour includes visits to iconic landmarks such as The White House, Lincoln Memorial, Martin Luther King Jr Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and The Capitol Building, with a drive past the Pentagon.

If it’s a night tour you’re after, though, my favourite has to be the Embassy Row Spy Tour (tickets cost $55 via spyher.co).

This 90-minute walking experience, designed and guided by former CIA officers, reveals the intriguing stories of notorious traitors who once lived and operated in the area.

D.C. embodies a “work hard, play hard” ethos so, beyond the rich history, be sure to carve out time to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere and myriad offerings of this dynamic capital.

One of my favourite areas was Georgetown, a former tobacco port that has been transformed into a charming suburb brimming with shops, restaurants and bars.

It’s also home to one of my favourite dining spots, Martin’s Tavern (martinstavern.com).

Established in 1933, this cosy, booth-lined restaurant with its homely brunch menu of buttermilk pancakes ($12.95) and corned beef hash ($16.95), plus its dinner menu of comfort food is celebrated as a favourite among Presidents.

You will relish every minute spent there and, if you ask politely, you might even be seated at the very table where JFK proposed to Jackie in 1953.

Just don’t ask for a pint of Guinness — it’s never as good as back at home. And make sure to book in advance.

I rounded off the trip in proper style ahead of the election, with a visit to Washington’s National Portrait Gallery (si.edu/museums/portrait-gallery) to admire the artwork depicting the nation’s former Presidents.

Washington may have the bright lights, towering skyscrapers and bustling streets of most American cities, but its history, low-rise architecture and surprising cleanliness are what really sets it apart.

I’ll be following next week’s Presidential election through a whole new lens.

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